Selecting Leathergoods

It is fairly common to see department stores promoting merchandise as being "Genuine Leather".  The problem with using a term like "Genuine Leather" is it offers no details about specifically what kind of leather it is.   Then again, maybe that's the point...

In general, there are four different grades of leather: bonded, split grain, top grain, and full grain.

Bonded leather is leather that is made of bits or scraps of leather which are then 'bonded' together into a single piece of leather.  In the manufacturing process, this type of leather may be made to look like a single piece of leather, but it lacks the strength of a single piece of hide.

Split grain leathers are the next grade up.  Manufacturers typically split hide into the outer most and inner most layers.  The inner most layer of hide that is produced in this process is called split grain leather.  Because it is a single piece of hide, instead of multiple pieces bonded together, split grain leathers offers more strength and better life than bonded leather.   When something is labeled "genuine leather", it is typically a split grain or bonded material.

Top grain leathers are made of the outer most layer of the hide, processed or sanded to hide serious imperfections in the leather.  Top grain leathers are stronger than split grain leathers because this outer layer of the hide is the most durable.  Top grain leathers may be formed in the manufacturing process to look like exotic skins such as alligator or ostrich.

Full grain leathers are made of the outer most layer of the hide.   Unlike top grain leathers, full grain leathers are not sanded or processed; rather, the beauty of the natural markings are left untouched.  In general, full grain leathers are preferable because they offer a combination of strength, durability and appearance.

Depending on the tanning process, full grain leathers can be manufactured to look and perform differently.  In general, there are four different types of full grain leathers: belting leather, saddle-type leather, Napa leather, and exotic skins. 

Belting leather gets its name from its original application; belting leather was manufactured to drive pulley belts in early industrial plants.  Special care in the tanning process makes belting leather one of the stiffest and strongest leathers.  In its natural tan color, belting leather develops a patina over time that gives the piece a rich, handsome look.

Saddle-type leather is used here to describe the group of full grain leathers that fall somewhere between the stiff belting leathers and the soft and supple Napa leathers.  Different tanning plants produce leathers with a range of texture and feel.

Napa leather is a full grain leather that is soft and supple.   Typically dyed, Napa leather offers a refined and sophisticated look. 

Exotic skins are, for our purposes here, any skin other than cowhide.   And there is a wide list from which to choose.  Some of the most popular types of exotic skins are alligator, ostrich, snake, and eel.  Other types of skins you may see include lizard and shark. 

Which type of leather works best for you?  The answer is dependent on many factors. 

• What look do you want to convey?

Napa leathers might reflect your refined and sophisticated side, belting leathers may communicate your rich and conservative side, and exotic skins will advertise your wild side.

• Which merchandise item offers the features you want?

Though you may prefer a particular type of skin, finding and item with a design that best meets your needs may be more important than the look of the leather; then again, it may not.  It's up to you.

• How much do you want to spend?

Though full grain leathers are generally preferred for their strength, appearance and durability, they are generally more expensive than other grades of leather.   Depending on your use, other grades of leather may suit your purposes well.

The bottom line is this: finding the right leather item is a personal decision based on your needs, preferences and budget.  But armed with the right information about leather, you'll be able to make a better, more informed decision. 

Send your questions about leather here.

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Selecting Leathergoods

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